Method of cutting and arranging material for collarets.



e. W. EBERLEY.

METHOD OF CUTTING AND ARRANGING MATERIAL FOR COLLARETS.

APPLICATION HLED NOV. 6. I912. 1 93,862. Patented Nov. 7, 1916.

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GEORGE W. EBERLEY,'OF WHITESBORO, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

METHOD OF CUTTING AND ARRANGING MATERIAL FOR COLLARETS.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Nov. '7, 1916.

Application filed November 6, 1912. Serial No. 729,835.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, GEORGE W. EBERLEY, a citizen of the United States, residing at lVhitesboro, in the county of Oneida, State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Methods of Cutting and Arranging Material for Collarets, of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying drawing and to the figures of reference marked thereon.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in the method of cutting blanks from fabric, and, more particularly, blanks which are shaped and designed for forming collarets for knitted garments.

An object of the invention is to provide a method of cutting fabric blanks wherein said blanks when out are not only shaped, but are formed in a connected series so that said connected blanks may be subsequently wound on a reel or spool and fed therefrom to a stitching mechanism where they are at tached to the garment.

A further object of the invention is to provide amethod of cutting collarets, wherein the same die may be used for cutting collarets of varying sizes without any adjustment whatever of the die.

These and other objects will in part be obvious, and will in part be hereinafter more fully disclosed.

In the drawings, which show by way of illustration one method of carrying out the invention, Figure 1 is a plan view of a piled fabric, having a series of blanks cut therefrom by my improved method, also showing in dotted lines the die for cutting the same; Fig. 2 shows the connected series of blanks cut by my improved method; Fig. 3 .is an end view showing the manner of piling fabric which is to be cut, also showing in dotted lines the method of piling the fabric for a larger collaret, and showing in full lines, diagrammatically, a die for cutting the piled fabric; Fig. 4. is a sectional view showing the collaret strip folded longitudinally of its edges.

My improved method is especially adapted for cutting collarets which are to be stitched to a knitted garment. These collarets are indicated at 1, 2, and 3, in Fig. 2

of the drawing. Each collaret is formed with parallel side portions 4: and 5, and tapered end portions 6 and 7.

It is desirable to out these collarets so that they will be connected. As shown in Fig. 2, the tapered portion at one end of the collaret 2 is formed integral with the tapered portion at the adjacent end of the collaret 1, while the tapered portion at the other end of the collaret 2 is formed integral with the tapered portion at the adjacent end of the collaret 3. It will be understood that these collaret blanks are formed in an extended series and they may, therefore, be wound on a reel or suitable spool and fed to the stitching mechanism, the collaret being carried through the machine will draw the other connected collarets from the reel or spool. The operator severs the collaret being sewed to the garment from the next adjacent col laret, when the end thereof is reached, for the purpose of finishing the garment. This shaping of the collaret forms a collaret which, when attached to the garment, tapers so that the side edges thereof substantially intersect at the finishing of the ends of the collaret, which gives an extremely neat appearance to the finished garment.

My improved method is especially direct ed to the cutting of the collarets so that they will be formed in a connected series, as above noted. In carrying out the invention, the fabric indicated at F is laid in layers f F, etc. These layers are formed by folding the fabric back and forth, asclearly indicated in Fig. 3. The layers are, therefore, connected, as at 8 and 9, which are alternately on opposite sides of the pile. The length of each layer that is, from the fold 8- to the fold 9, is the precise length of the desired blank for forming the collaret. The piled fabric is then presented to a die 10, indicated diagrammatically in full lines in Fig. 3, and in dotted lines in Fig. 1. This die is provided with straight sides 11 and 12, which are parallel with each other at the outer ends of the dies, and said cutting sides are curved, as indicated by the full lines at 13 and 14 in Fig. l of the drawing. When this piled fabric is submitted to the die, said die will cut through all of the layers and cut therefrom a portion shaped, as indicated in Fig. 1 of the drawing. The full lines 4 and 5 form the straight side edges of the collaret, while the tapered lines 6 and 7 form the tapered sides of the collaret.

The collaret blank extends above the side of the pile.

folded edge 9 at one side of the pile and extends below the folded edge 8 at the other In other words, when the collaret blanks are straightened out, as indicated in Fig. 2, the lines mw will indicate the folds in the layers in the piled fabric. It will be, therefore, apparent that one half of each collaret is cut from one layer, while the other half thereof is cut from the layer directly beneath the same, and the fold in the blank will be midway between the ends of the blank. The die 10, as illustrated in Figs. 1 and 3, is somewhat longer than the length of the layers, or the length of the longest collaret.

l/Vhen it is desired to cut a larger collaret, the fabric is laid in layers, which are the length of the enlarged collaret, as shown in dotted lines in Fig. 3. The same die may be used for cutting the collaret blank, the only care required is that the center of the pile shall be directly underneath the center of the die. The tapered portions of these longer collarets will be precisely the same as above, and the length of the collaret is increased by increasing the length of the portion having parallel edges.

From the above description, it will be apparent that I have provided a method wherein a series of connected collaret blanks may be cut from a piled fabric by a single die, Said blanks will be uniformly shaped, and will be folded midway between their ends which materially assists the operator in stitching the collaret blanks to the garment, as this fold centrally of the blank should be brought into register with the center of the back garment, and when these parts are properly positioned, the collaret will be laid smoothly and evenly on the garment.

It will be obvious that the pile may be again offered to the die and a second series of connected collaret blanks cut therefrom, as indicated by the dotted lines 15 and 16 in Fig. 1.

lVhile I have described the invention as especially adapted for cutting collaret blanks, it will be obvious that the invention may be applied to the cutting of; other shaped blanks, wherein it is desired to form a connected series of blanks.

While I have described a specific method of cutting and arranging the material for forming collarets, it will be understood that the material may be otherwise arranged, and the cutter otherwise shaped, provided that the resulting product is a series of connected collaret blanks. e

It is to be understood, of course, that the collaret blank above described is folded longitudinally between its side edges, as shown in Fig. I, and is in this form attached to the garment.

Having thus what I claim is:

1. The method of forming a series of connected shaped fabric blanks, consisting in piling the fabric in connected layers formed by a fold in the fabric, laid alternately at opposite sides of the pile, and cutting said piled fabric from one folded edge to the other, said lines of cutting being spaced and positioned so as to'form connected blanks, each blank containing a fold in the piled described my invention,

fabric, which is located midway between the v ends of the blank.

2. Themethod of forming a series of connected fabric blanks, consisting of superposing a plurality of layers of fabric, whereby folds are formed in said fabric upon opposite sides of a center line, and cutting said fabric whereby said lines of cutting at the center line form a doubletapered portion extending in opposite directionfrom said center line, so that two or more shaped collaret blanks are formed simultaneously,

and finally folding said blanks longitudinally between said side edges to position the edges of the tapered portions upon themselves.

In testimony whereof, I affix my signa- Witnesses:

JOSEPH BERGER, J12, CHAS. B. MASON.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Eatents,

Washington, D. G. 

